Sucre and a spanish school at last

Sucre is at 2700m and we are able to breathe easily again. Potosi at 4200m was a challenge and we chewed many coca leaves there.

Sucre, Bolivia

Hostel Crus de Popaya was OK and had a woderful shower. Looked at some other hotels around the square in the evening. Next morning moved to Grand Hotel. Beautiful gardens in the courtyards. Checked out lots of spanish schools most of which appearred to have no students. Started Friday morning at Sucre Spanish school.

School ok but by lunchtime it is raining. Hard rain for next three days and very cold. No heating in Grand Hotel and courtyards no good in rain. Saturday afternoon I check out lots of hostels getting soaked in process. I found the swimming pool next to the Eifel Tower in Park Bolivar. Had the stangest haircut for $ 2 with the sides cut and neck shaved but nothing off the top. With Youngmi go to look at last two hostels and one Casa Verde is superb. Manage to move there on Sunday morning. It has a pool but more importantly a nice warm lounge dining room.

That evening meet a tall guy in a hat in the darkness. It can only be Detlev. Go to El Paso eat chicken and chips and drink Judas beer. Very tasy 7% beer from La Paz. Apparently is poring down all over Bolivia and roads are closed. The Uyuni tour was stopped by flooding.

Monday back to school and then film in the evening the Devils miner. Still freezing and wet. Tuesday the sun is back. After school I go for a walk to the hilltop behind the town Ecalyptus trees and smells like Australia. Also like Australia there is no view from the top. Catch the local bus as I walk back to town but it heads away from town to a huge chaoitic market Mecardo de Campesinos. The bus is stuck in the traffic and the lady behind me is robbed through the bus window. 30 mins later I am relieved to recognise part of town and get off .30c for a one hour bus ride. I should have walked.

Wednesday more sun but I must do my homework before the salsa dancing class.

Silver mines of Potosi at 4200 metres

The hotel in Uyuni was a great idea especially as Youngmi got the Bolivian Belly. She was well enough next day to board a nice bus on an even better road for four hours through the mountains. A ticket cost $5 about 1/10 of Argentine price.

Potosi, Bolivia

Potosi had the biggest silver mines in the Spanish empire and it is said maybe 5 million people died in the mines. As the mines were so rich there are some grand old buildings. In Potosi and some great xmas decorations in the square. Checked out some dismal hostels including one run by a frozen old lady covered in a blanket who looked at us and said No.Found a good place Carlos 5.

9 am next morning it was off on the mine tour. Olga led us and Daichi to the miners market where we bought gifts for miners : coca leaves, 94% alcohol, soft drinks, big cigarettes and a stick of dynamite. We didnt buy the ammonium nitrate to give the dynamite more bang. Got overalls, helmet, lamp and wellies and went up to one mine. The hill is full of mines all with different owners and all very prmitive but extensive. Walking into a wet muddy tunnel along some rough rail tracls the guide said run. Me and Daichi were off and dived into an alcove with the guide. We can see a truck hurtling towards us with a miners light on top. Behind Youngmi doesnt know what is happening and is saying dont go so fast. The guide rushes back and pins Youngmi to the tunnel wall just before the truck rushes past.

Other highlights included climbing from one level to another using a pully rope. There are no ladders in the mine. We also gave gifts to Tio a devil statute in the mine. Lots of miners working chipping rocks, pushing trucks and in the distance drilling. There is a german film the Devils miner which shows the mine life well.

Back on the surface it is raining but we find a great restaurant with a four course delicious meal for $5. Opposite Casa Moneda. A vegetarian restaurant serving llama.

Visit the witches market next morning where lots of natural medicines are sold. Dried llama foetuses seemed most popular.On bus to Sucre it is pouring down as we leave but brightens up.

Four days through Bolivian south west to Uyuni

Tour through south west to uyuni, Bolivia

After two comfortable days in the swimming pool hotel we set off on a four wheel drive adventure.We were told the other couple had been delayed so Dave took the chance to go for a quick walk to the cross on a nearby hilltop. Some locals directed me up a very rocky litter marked path. Eventually reached the top and a great view. Very steep and crumbly coming down and I fell and twisted my knee. Luckily it was OK till I got back to the hotel but mighty sore afterwards. Luckily we were sitting in a Nissan Patrol for the next four days. Christian and Katya shared the car with Marco our driver.

Dirt road up big hills with great rock formations. Really scary road and then the local bus came the other way from San Antonio the place we were going to stay.Amazing that an old bus could get along the road. Little mining camps along the way and grand scenery.Room at San Antonio simple but clean and comfy. Town has 250 people and big snowy mts at back. Young lad from house plays a changuro? and sings in Spanish and Quechua.

Off at 7am next day. Old spanish gold mining town in middle of hills. Had 5000 people in 1600s. Big snowy mts then sunny desert spot for lunch. Paintings on rocks including hands of the devil.

Road a very vague track through many rocks.Laguna de colores with lots of flamingos. Up to 5000m and the geysers. Bubbling pools really. Katya has altitude trouble headache and unwell. We have all been chewing coca leaves all day and luckily the rest of us are OK.

Maybe 100 people at hostel. Although at 4300m it becomes warm during night. It was cold when we went to bed. Strange as this had happened previous night.
Up at 6 and beautiful sun. Hostel in desert surrounded by big snowy mts which looked like you could walk up.

Road past rock formations then across big high desert. No signs since we started and Marco knew the way through many junctions and very rough tracks. Lovely sunny lake with lots of flamingoes. We had also seen loads of llamas, some ostriches , kiwis and little rabbit like things.Over big grassy area with high mts again. Laguna negra with ducks then big storm just as we finish lunch

Weather and scenery kept changing but always dramatic. Red hot and blue skies or black skies and rain. Rain stopped us going to hotel on salt plain.Instead to Uyuni and a rough hostel with no water in dirty toilets. Uyuni is at 3600m and very dusty and windy. Amazing spread of rubbish for miles around town. We think the rubbish trucks drive to edge of town and let rubbish blow where it will.
The highlight of Uyuni is the cemetry of trains. About 30 steam trains rotting away on a rail track about 3kms away. Sain to have been there since 1950.

As we walk back to hostel from bus area a dust storm comes through. As it is just before dark very dramatic.

Up at 4am on last day. Drive onto Salt Bed Salar y Yuni for sun rise. Salt for miles lots covered in water. Becomes hot sun as Katya ballet dances and takes lots of photos with Chris. Salt hotel interesting being built of salt blocks. Last lunch with a glass of wine.

Unable to get bus to Potosi in afternoon so move into a very nice hotel with a bath and lots of hot water. Recommended by Detlev who we meet in the street.
We have been impressed by the four wheel drive going over rough tracks for 100s kms

Crossing the border and to Tupiza, Bolivia

Unfortunately everyone had got early buses and there were about 500 people trying to cross. Mainly Argentine students. Amazingly good natured group but we spent 4 hours queuing in red hot sun at 4000m. I walked off several times while Youngmi kept our place and came back once with goats cheese empanadas, a bit too exotic for that hot day.

Bolivian border

Finally we were in Bolivia and a different world. Lots of ladies in bowler hats carrying huge amonuts of stuff in coloured shawls. Found a chicken and rice diner with Bastian a dutch guy we had shared the queue with. Got loads of money from an ATM then bus to Tupiza. Just $2 for a 2 hour ride through amazing mountains. Chatted to Alan an argentine student who again told us all the students are trying to get to Macchu Pichu Tupiza looked nice amongst more red cliffs.

Found a nice hostel near bus station for once. Dinner in town of steak rice chips and salad for $1.50 this is the perfect place for Dave. Henry arrives at our hostel next day with no money as he was told there were no ATMs at border. The ones in Tupiza not working so more and more people have no money.

Tupiza, Bolivia

We are told there is a fiesta in the evening and go to look for it without success. Walk for so long we are starving so we, Henry and Johnannes a german guy who regretted coming with us to find the fiesta buy burgers in the street. Complete with everything including chips and salad they seemed a bargain at 30 cents each. Me and Henry go to a circus while Youngmi makes a good decision and goes home.

From Tupiza, Bolivia

The circus was a modest affair. The seating was planks of wood tied to a frame and at the start time there were about 20 of us waiting excitedly. Another 45 mins was spent getting more customers until we were surrounded on our planks and I was very worried they would collapse. The rest of the seating was still empty. Mainly a clown show with spanish banter while they hit each other. Very popular with the locals but terrible for us. The only bright spot was spiderman spinning a big white frame around.

From Tupiza, Bolivia

Next day people still trying to get money without success. We and Henry go horse riding in the afternoon. Wonderful scenary but even Youngmi is complaining that her horse won't trot. By the time we get back I need to trot.

From Tupiza, Bolivia

The burger has worked its magic and as soon as we get back to the hostel it is into the toilet where I spend most of the night. Convinced I was going to die from Bolivian belly I was grateful that Youngmi nursed me through the night. Tried to get a bus to Uyuni next day but the 10.30 departure time on the office window was wrong. We bought a ticket for 10am the next day thinking it was for 10.30 that day so no bus appearred. Gave up. Moved into the best hotel with a pool good room and good internet. Took more washing to be done, mainly from the previous night, got money as the ATM had come alive and continued the recovery from the burger attack. It was cheap.

Tilcara, Humhuca and to the Bolivian border

Arrived in a hot dusty cactus town only two hours from Jujuy but a different world. After a few false starts and a couple of hours find a nice byt expensive hotel. Cook dinner and eat in lounge looking out over big red mountains.

Tilcara, Argentina

Meet Henry our South African mate from Uspallatta and share beer and wine in his hostel garden. After we went to bed he had dinner and found a party bar until 8am the next morning. When Henry went to bed we went to see the local ruins an old town on a hilltop. Red hot as walked around but great views.

Humhuaca, Argentina

Bus to Humhuaca next town in old colonial style. Hostel run by Carlos very pleasant. He was born there and it was his grandparents family home. Youngmi asked about the old spanish treasure chest in our room. Nice old town but all restaurants were quiet when we looked for dinner. Bad restaurant choice. No water with our bottle of wine, Youngmi had a dried up little steak-a disgrace to Argentina, my llama hamburger had no bun I had to pay extra for that and the best when I asked if the music could be turned down-we were the only customers - I was referred to the back page of the menu which said the volume could not be adjusted. Next morning 8.30am to La Quica and the Bolivian border.

Shoe repair and hair cut in Jujuy

Jujuy bus station and surrounding market pretty rough. Walk around the twon to find a reasonable hostel up the hill in a better part of town. Grand old buildings around the plaza. Dakar rally coming through in two days. After leaving bags in the hostel, we set off to find a shoe repair. Daves boots started falling off, maybe too much walking. We go into a very old shop selling things for shoes and horse seddles, ets. A man at the shop shows us a can of bond and explains how to repair the boots. Too advanced spanish to understand, but a young uni student volunteers to help. We say we want to get them repaired and we will pay. The shop man says they dont do that here. Walking out the shop with the bond, Youngmi scratches her hair wondering how to repair them in the hostel. The shop man stops us and puts bond around the ripped parts and instructs us to press the area after 20 minutes. We try to pay extra for his work, but he refuses to receive money. A good enough walk back to hostel to press the boots. After that, a dinner at Los Chinos old mans pool hall with a great waiter and pizza and beer.

Jujuy, Argentina

Next morning youngmi becomes brave to walk into a rather old fasioned hair dresser. A sign on the window says only 45 pesos (approx 8 dollars) for a model like hair cut. Dave chats with the hair dresser and an old lady customer in Spanish. Youngmi gets impressed about Dave's Spanish. Later Dave says he didnt know what they were talking. After only about ten minutes playing with scissors, hair cut is done, and eveyone is happy with the result. We then check out huge cathedral and church.

A bus to Tilcara through big forested hills then desert.

Anno neuvo or new year in Cafayate

Bus through thick forrest up mountain side to Tafi then gassy hills to 3000mts. Descending it is dry with lots of cacti. Cafayate nice town but we book into El Balcon hostel. The music in the street will stop at 11pm says the manager and it does. It is replaced by a disco around the corner which booms all night and building works in the hostel and mosquitos nightmare.

Cafayate, Argentina

Move to Hotel Amacen next day. Same price and perfect. We are well looked after by Jorge and friends the next three nights and are so happy.
Walk to 4 wineries almost in Cafayate. We see the Don David winery but it is  closed. Others great. Buy a bottle of local speciality Torrentes.

One very hot day catch local packed bus to near Qulimes ruins. Walk last 5kms up hot dirt track through cacti. About 20 young argentines also walking up to appreciate their history. Ruins not too dramatic. Get a lift back down track then walk on road hitching without success for an hour. The bus the rescues us and two argentine students for new years in Cafyate.

After a roasting day it pours down with thunders. Most restaurants shut. Run to buy a roast chicken in the street and have this with bread and Don David for new years eve. A few people in square at 12 and kids setting off fireworks.

New years day all shut. Walk to cascades through more cacti and wineries.indian people living in area. See rock paintings. Last night at hotel enjoying all comforts.

A bus to salta through huge gorge to cafayate then on to Jujuy.

Tucuman with the cuckoos.

Where to next? Chile or Mendoza? Mendoza is easier, so we got back on the bus. Wave to Gabriel as we pass Uspallatta.

Tucuman, Argentina

Beer and a hot dog on Mendoza bus station then two hour ride to San Juan. Best bus ever with Cata.  Great seats snacks and unlimited tea and coffee from a machine near us on the top deck.

San Juan was nothing special and hostels were worse so we book night bus to Tucuman. We had a dinner at bus station with a bottle of wine. Youngmi went to toilet in the cafe and shocked to find a big dog sleeping next to the toilet seat. Called a waiter to remove the dog, he made a face asking what's wrong sharing the toilet with a dog. The dog had to be called out, but Dave found him again later in the male toilet.

After a reasonable sleep on the bus, we had a breakfast at Tucuman bus station. Attracted by wifi logo on the window that didnt work. We managed to find a hostel in great part of town that must have been grand once. Tucuman was a very active and busy town. The hostel we stayed was also very interesting. Some people appeared being living there quite a while. We met an Irish bloke who traveled all around the world, then lived in Tucuman for 7 years. He said he sold his apartment last year and put away his stuffs in a storage room with a hope to travel again. But he seemed to be stuck in the hostel for long. He said there are some cuckcoos in the hostel, he is one of them. Later in the evening, he said he found a bat in his bathroom. It was a very old building. If we lived there longer, we probably could see some bats.

More about Cerro Penitentes

Cerro Penitentes 4380m about 1800m above the hostel. After a bad nights sleep as Aconcagua people and xmas eve partiers came and went all night we set off at 7.30am.

Bridge over the river then along old rail track for a couple of miles. Climbed steep path to a gorge through the mountains Quebrada de Vargas. Los Penitentes pinnacles look like a Lord of the Rings scence. Pass a little tent sheltering behind a big rock and shortly after reach the refuge. Luckily we have been told it is little bigger than a telephone box so we are not disappointed that it is a tiny stone shelter.

The three guys from the tent are coming up the valley so weset off up a steep grassy hillside. Lose the path and scramble through some rocks before emerging on a rocky wide ridge. From there it is ever upwards usually with a zig zag path through scree. Very clear and we can see lots of mountains including Aconcagua. Sometimes very windy and exposed we are glad there are three other people below. Reach a flattish rocky area with snow pinnacles and feel on top of the world. Another 20mins and we are at the top about 2pm what a relief. Meet the three check guys on way down. One is called Wenceslas perfect for christmas. Wish each other happy christmas then they struggle up as we scree run down.

At refuge I have a bath in the river then continue back through the gorge. I must be tired as I stumble on path cutting my hand. Walk back on rail track is endless and I am good for nothing back at hostel. Martin congrats us.

Los Penitentes Aconcagua Christmas

Two hour bus ride through more magnificent scenery to 2600m and Los Penitentes ski village. Sun shine and mountains so big. Little hostel like a mountain hut.

Los Penitentes, Argentina

Martin looking after us and advising on walks. Sunny and very windy much of the time.
Next morning tried to get a lift to Aconcagua and soon got a lift beyond there to Los Cueavas at 3000m. Walked up to a statue on the border with Chile at 3900m  Some snow but very clear.

Las Cuevas Statue, Argentina

Ran down scree so that coming down took 40mins compared with 3 hours going up.
Lift in the back of am open truck great views and driver stopped at entrance to Aconcagua park. Went in for a couple of hours for wonberful views of Aconcagua. Two more lifts and back to hostel.

Mt Aconcagua

Day two and lift back to Puente del Inca with Reiner and Ole the sane couple who picked us up before. Walked up old railway through avalanche tunnels with rattling panels and owls. Walked as dar as we could in Aconcagua park on $2 fee. Again superb views. Beware of wind and mules said the sign and it was right.

Martin hostel manager welcomes us back

Expecting a quiet xmas eve at the hostel but it filled with about 20 people back from Aconcagua. Only 6 has made the summit. Others stopped by strong winds or altitude sickness.

Cerro Penitentes

Uspallatta Dec 20th

We have had little or no internet connection for a while so I will try to catch up now.

Our last night in Bariloche was superb with a steak dinner with four friends. Francois and Satcha two lovely swiss guys bought two kilos of the best argentine beef and cooked it to perfectio. We Amie and Marisca provided potatoes salad and red wine and heaven.

Mendoza

On a very cold day we boarded the bus for Mendoza. We should have gone first class with the lads as they has champagne and beds on the bus.16 hours later Mendoza and so hot. Checked loads of no good hostels and after two nights moved to Uspallatta.

Fantastic 1700m hostel first building after lots of gorges. Gabriel made us welcome to his most relaxed place. Cycled into mountains which were like a furnace in colour and temp. A great rafting trip and then horse riding before another steak dinner with our mates. Stan in training for Mt Aconcagua waked 6kms to town and carried 27kgs of food and drink back. The 5ltr bottles of Malbec for $10 were a bonus. Big bonfire to finish off.

Uspallata Hostel, Argentina

Rafting in Uspallata, Argentina

BBQ at Uspallata Hostel, Argentina

Horse riding at Uspallata

Cerro 7 colors bike ride, Uspallata