Robbed in Huaraz, Peru

Today was a grim day in Huaraz.
At the viewpoint above town when no one else was around a man wearing a balaclava and holding a big knife jumped out of the trees grabbed Youngmi held the knife to her throat and took our bags,money and Youngmis money belt with passport. Fortunately he then released her and we ran like crazy down the hill until we found the police. We then had over 6 hours with the police.We phone the Australian embassy but it is closed for the weekend. Phone the banks next then to bed.
Good we are in one piece but Youngmi is badly shaken.
Thanks for being our friends

"Que Ora es ?' These words now strike terror into us. We were told one person asks you this whilst their mate robs you.
After a dodgy few days in which we met an aussie guy whose friend was asked in Lima what time is it? just before the questioner's mate stuck a knife in him and robbed him we are on edge.
We had a crazy 5 hours in the Lima migration dept today trying to get an entry stamp in Youngmis emegency passport. Walking along the street afterwards two ladies said 'what time is it?' Dave grabbed Youngmi and we ran away from the mass murderers.
As for the migration dept, for a place with hundreds of people being processed in did not seem to bad at first. Pay 14 soles get your passport copied and go upstairs. Maybe 30 mins for the copy and payment but there is a waiting room for people trying to go upstairs. 30 mins more in there. Up the stairs and another 30mins to the counter. The charge is 12 soles you have paid too much. Keep the change we said but that is not allowed. You must go back downstairs and change the payment at the bank to 12. Back down then back up and in the queue. Hand the docs in then wait 2 and a half hours with varios queries. All the time there is a guy in a striped shirt standing patiently. Two missionaries sitting near us say the guy has been here since they first came at 9am Monday morning (2.5 days ago). The guy is eventually told he cannot be processed today Wed and as tomorrow is the start of the easter holiday he should come back next Monday. This is a nightmare. We may not get our entry stamp today. Three english lads join us. They were robbed of everything in Chiloe in Chile on Dec 20th. They put all their stuff in lockers in a hostel and all three lockers were emptied. Between them they had the clothes they were wearing and one had a bank card as he had been drawing money. They got emergency UK passports and had just got new full passports. As these required Peru entry stamps here they were. Two lads handed in their docs and as the third was about to the lady said the office is now closed come back Monday. After many cries of anguish someone else accepted his papers.
Youngmi eventually got her entry permit but this filled one page of the four page emergency passport. Not a promising start to our attempt to reach the UK on this.

Managed to buy two new money belts today and tomorrow are on the bus for 16 hours to Piura in north Peru. No response from the aussie ambassador to my email of complaint on how we were treated there. The minor complaint was only three chairs in the waiting and reception area so that unhappy aussies have to sit on the floor or stand for ages. Other complaints on limitations of emergency passport and lack of consideration.
The taxi back from downtown was good. Nice taxi driver and going as fast as possible in rush hour traffic. Bigger cars trying to squash us.
Peru has got the better of us. There have been scams since we arrived and the robbery and grief since have rattled us. Hopefully calm will return in Ecuador and the emergency passport will at least last until England.It definately wont get us to Africa but that is for another day. We are changing from spanish to Taekwondo lessons. Ninja Youngmi will get the next robber.

Will try to attach the last photos before Dave's Fell and Mountain t shirt and other newer items were nicked. Where is Dixon of Dock Green?

Lima and a doctor visit for Daves big fat belly

The hotel in Cusco became more and more like Fawlty towers with increasing arguements between Dave and Victor over the mantequilla. Pre Inca Trail a lady had served breakfast and happily put out everything so that you could help yourself. Now Victor had taken over breakfast and was keeping everything hidden presumably to reduce consumption. We now had to ask for milk for coffee, butter and jam and Victor provided a small amount with the maximum amount of complaining.
The last afternoon Dave checked the fridge for his insulin and it was gone. He found it in the freezer frozen and therefore probably destroyed. The lady at reception said very sorry and phoned the doctor who said it is destroyed but you can get more at a price in Cusco, good news. Victor then said someone had left a bag in the fridge so he had moved it to the freezer. He didn´t know it was medicine.The hotel manager said there are lots of diabetics in Cusco but they can't afford insulin and die.As it was $20 per tube I imagine its true. The hotel gave Dave $120 towards the cost of replacement insulin and we went for a farewell dinner with Detlev and Urte. They had been upgraded to a great hotel and were happy. Back at Fawlty Towers the hot water had gone to warm. I guess Victor had turned the thermostat down. No last bath.

Album - Lima, Peru

Great flight to Lima. Shared a taxi with two ladies to the hostel.At the airport it was 45 soles for a taxi. We were told as there were 4 of us we had to pay 55soles for a minivan. The minivan turned out to be a Toyota Yaris small car and we could fit in OK. A tour of hotels suggested by the taxi driver led to the hostel the ladies wanted to go to at the start. Ceasar the taxi driver speeding through Lima and getting increasingly unhappy as we rejected his hostels. Lima very big and lots very modern. Apartments, big roads, gardens and sunshine. We stayed at Miraflores a couple of streets from the cliffs and sea. Lots of paragliders floating along the cliff tops-very nice.Next day bus into lima and see changing if the guard, cathedral, musuem and old torture chambers of the spanish inquisition. Dave full of gas and feeling sick at the sight of most food. Look across the river to Rimac and the squatter settlements on the hillside. We have been told it is too dangerous to visit these districts and the police standing with machine guns on the bridge suggested they thought it was dangerous too. We somehow manged to get a bus back to Miraflores. Exciting as ever weaving in and out of traffic. A guy of about 65 in a suit got on the bus and tried selling encyclopedias. Amazing enthusiasm. He spoke good english having lived in the states for many years and knew my accent was not australian.
Next day manged to get a night bus ticket to Huaraz. The travel agent lady had a korean boyfriend. There are koreans everywhere. Walked to the restaurants on the cliff top then along the grey beach to Barranco. Museum of electricity didnt take long. Bus with the conductor hanging out scooped us up and back to Miraflores. Visited what we thought was a burial mound but was a huge structure made of mud bricks.Dave has more pains in the stomach and his belly is getting even bigger with gas. Taxi to the bus and just as we think we hvae been kidnapped we come to a very smart bus station. Bus modern but seats not huge and it is too hot. Sleep most of the way to Huaraz arriving at 6.30am. People at bus station wanting to show us hotels but Youngmi tells them we want breakfast.After breakfast find a nice hotel then a doctor for Dave before his belly gets so big that he explodes. Great doctor, thorough checks and diagnosis of food poisoning. Antibiotics-cipofloxin and bismutol to chew.No more burgers in the street as the burgers are likely to be unhealthy and may include rats-only horsemeat in England.Put iodine in water if not bottled or boiled.
The antibiotics for the stomach were $15 in Bolivia. Here they were 50cents. Lot cheaper than insulin.Dave took his first tablets and began to hope he would survive. Tonight he is still producing enough gas to run a power station. Amazed to meet Julie in a hotel. We had last seen her in Sucre since when she had been in the jungle for a few weeks.Hopefully Daves belly will be smaller tomorrow and he can start to fasten his trousers again

The next morning and the cure is starting to work. Dave no lomger thinks he will be dead before the week is out. For a few minutes the previous evening the clouds rolled away to reveal amazing pointy snowy mountains not far from town. Reminds Dave of when he first saw the Matterhorn in 1975. The Cordillera Blanca appears a great mountain area but we are in the rainy season so will need a bit of luck to get good weather.This is close to the Touching the Void mountains.We will try to avoid the need to crawl for four days down the mountains with a broken leg, or to crawl for four hours back from the pub

The Inca Trail in the rainy season

Album - Inca Trail

16 trekkers and four guides set off from Cusco to the sacred valley.We had our usual big packs while others had as little as a carrier bag.The carrier bag was supplemented by a day pack and walking polls at the breakfast stop. Ollyantambo was a pretty little town with cobbled streets and a magificent inca ruin going up the hillside.The bus managed to get a few miles further down a dirt track past little farms to a big river and the start of the camino del Inca.In sunshine we walked along the valley past a couple of Inca ruins and always between big mountains.

We reached the first campground just before dark.The porters had put the tents up and we were soon unpacked.Dinner in the big tent with our new friends from Argentina,Chile,Peru, Japan. Ireland and England. Dave trying hard to roll his rrrrrrs like the Argentinians.We were told breakfast would be at 5.30am next day but at 6 am there was not even a cup of tea. When breakfast came Diabetic Dave had porridge with sugar and lots of jam and bread and had no insulin to help to make the climb from 2900m to 4200m without his sugar level going low. For three hours we climbed the well paved but steep Inca Trail  with Dave puffing but happy has he passed most of the younger walkers. We met two walkers from Georgia. Dave said that was in the old USSR. No its in the USA. Raining most of the way but great moutain views.Sat in the 4200m mountain pass for one hour. WArm one side and freezing on the other. Lots of steps down to the next campsite. Beautiful view of snowy mountains and big waterfalls. Lots of rain in the night.
Next morning climbed up inca steps up the mountainside passing one inca ruin before the next pass. Down many steps at the otherside to a big inca ruin like a castle. Lunch next to another ruin In more rain we climbed up through jungle to a great narrow path just below a ridge. Really well built stony paths we visited another big ruin as we started to descend. There had been so much building in the hills.Then down and down to the campground not long before dark. One of the Georgians tells us there is a great ruin near the campground. We check it out and it is amazing. Big terraces had transformed a mountainside into good farming land. The meals were getting less appetizing or we were a bit sick. Met the porters on the last night.

Up at 3am on final day so that the porters can be in the valley to get the train back. About 4.30 set off in dark and pouring rain . After 15 mins we are at the gate to Macchu Picchu trail. As it doesnt open until 5.30am we sit in a ditch in the rain with the sound of Dave complaining this is nonsense. About 200 others trekkers who are not saying much.5.30 and we are off along the trail. Still raining but coming light.Good path up to the sun gateabout 5kms. Freezing and pouring down there-no sun. Our colleagues in $2 ponchos and traing shoes must have been soaked. Glimpse of Machu Pichu through the fog and rain. Down at main gate leave our big bags ,wait for our guide to have breakfast then start tour of Machu Pichu about 9.30 just as sun is coming out.For two hours it is scorching hot. Great views.

Wonderful place on a ridge surrounded by big drops and bigger mountains. Our guide Henry telling us to feel the energy. A trip to the inca bridge is equally impressive. An inca path along a mountainside to a bridge leading to another section of path now closed off but going across a cliff face.Very impressed with Machu Pichu we start the walk down to Agua Calientes in more rain. 45 mins down but then an unexpected 30 mins walk up a track to the down.Huge river crashing alongside the track. Get the train with 10mins to spare. Very pleasant. Bus from Ollytambo with views of big snowy mountains. Steep steep road down into Cusco. A hot bath and a glass of wine at Fawlty towers hotel.

Album - More in Cusco

Next day meet Detlev and Urte in the square. We last saw Detlev the tall man in a hat in Sucre. Since then he has met his wife in Beunas Aires travelled Patagonia then had a one week horror trip by bus from Lima to Cusco.Great to see him again.Next day do the ruins nearby including sexywoman an inca city with walls made of the biggest stone blocks ever. Local lunch of soup and trout. Sounds good but the mere thought of this makes Dave feel sick. He is in decline.Good tour of Cusco next day from Millhouse hostel. Visiting the market is an experience with lots of strange heads for sale.

Having pizza for lunch and see our first guinea pig which is sharing the pizza oven.Final dinner in Jacks cafe with Detlev and Urte in Daves attempt to avoid local food. Flight to Lima next for an easy life

Lake Titicaca and french toast in Cusco

Album - Copacabana, Bolivia

With Youngmi still feeling rough we had a 4 hour bus ride to Copocabana on Lake Titicaca. Huge lake looking like the sea, sunshine, lots of cafes all looked good. Taxi to Hotel Utma took two minutes and just drove around the corner from the bus station. Dave climbed a hill overlooking town for sunset and found a much better hotel. Next morning moved to La Cupula, a hotel built by Martin over the last 17 years. Martin is a german sculptor and the hotel was beautiful. Lots of gardens, hammocks, different shaped buildings and a fire place in our room.

All restaurants in town had exactly the same menu and food was either no good or we were still suffering altitude sickness. Copocabana was near the Isla del Sol where the inca emporers came from. Lots of Inca sites round about. Dave climbed a granite hill with inca steps. He also set off walking to Yumapapa. After an hour a minibus took him the last 15 kms. Beautiful ride along the waters edge and through villages and hills. Practising spanish with the locals on the bus. Climbed another hill past a few llamas and looked at Isla del Sol and big snowy mts.Started walking back but no traffic. Luckily one car picked Dave up. This was the ice cream car and stopped at all people along the way to sell them an ice cream.

Used the hot tub at La Cupula lying in the not water watching the sun set. Two argentinian ladies told us Hugo Chavez had died. Hugo was the only news on the TV for next few days.

Album - Puno, Peru

La Cupula was great and Copocabana was not.Bus to Peru.Very fast border crossing.Peru border guard says welcome to Peru and that Dave has good teeth.The Bolivian dentist must have been a wizard.Stopped a night in Puno and visited the floating islands. Big islands made of reeds that about 200 people live on. Puno was pretty rough apart from one nice street. Two good meals one of Alpaca.Building up to guinea pig.From the ferry got a motorbike rickshaw back to hotel. Flying through the streets in the dark.

Bus from Puno to Cusco for 10 hours stopping at some inca and colonial sites.Lots of terraces for farming high on the mountain sides. Fell out with the bus company as we had bought a ticket including admission to 5 sites and they wanted us to pay extra for admissions.

French toast

Album - First few days in Cusco, Peru

Met Mark and Bec a scottish couple on the bus. In Cusco Dave and Mark went hotel hunting and found a good place where Mark got the rooms for half price.

Next lunchtime Mark was desperate for a big scottish breakfast with french toast.He negotiated a good deal replacing toast with french toast. When it arrived it was a big breakfast but "this is toast not french toast"The manager struggled to understand as Mark kept repeating this in an increasingly strong scottish accent. So funny if you were not desperate for french toast. Tomorrow we are off for four days along the inca teail to Machu Pichu

6000m mountain and a little altitude sickness

Album - Huyuni Potosi

Yesterday at 6.30am we made the summit of Huyuni Potosi. There was a beautiful sunrise but Dave lay on the snow gripping his ice axe which was dug firmly in the snow and wondered how we would get back down.

Huyuni Potosi is 6088m or 19,974feet. We were on the lower summit at 6035m and nothing was going to get us along a narrow snow ridge with big drops either side to the north summit. Our guide was happily taking photos on the narrow ridge and it was only later we remembered we were roped to him.

We booked our tour with Adolfo Andino as Adolfo had been climbing for years and knew what he was talking about. The other climbs were being sold by young people who spoke english but probably knew better than to spend their time on this mountain. Adolfo supplied all the gear we needed and gave us a good price-we were on.

Tuesday morning we met our guide Irineo and with all our gear climbed into an ancient Toyota taxi and set off. Driving up the steep roads of La Paz 3600m to El Alto 4200m at the top of the city was scary enough. We then went along the roughest roads through El Alto and onto a big plateau a bit like the top of the Coppice. After a while the big mountains began to appear and the road started climbing. We passed maybe 200 graves near some old mines and were told these were from 1972 when the miners tried fighting the dictator of Bolivia. He sent the army and the miners were killed.

At 4700m we were at base camp, a stone refuge with no heating but a very friendly Bolivian lady who looked after the place. She wore about 10 skirts, a woolly hat and a big smile to keep warm. The afternoon was spent on the local glacier learning how to use ice axe and crampons. Irineo soon had us climb down a steep ice slope and jump across a narrow but deep crevasse onto a ledge at the bottom of an ice cliff. As he had us on a rope he kept saying ´no problema´. From the ledge we tried climbing the ice cliff taking turns with the one helmet. We didnt have the strength to pull ourselves up with the two ice axes and so spent most of the time swinging on the rope over the crevasse. Finally we gave up on the ice cliff and were horrified to find our only was back was to jump across the crevasse and climb up the less steep ice slope. Irineo went first and then threw us a rope. Dave went first and made it as he had no choice. Youngmi was next and was out of sight for 15mins as she tried different ways to get up. Unsure of what would happen next we went back to the hut. We kept waking up all night. Not sure if this was altitude, nerves or too much coca tea.

Next morning climbed a rocky path from 4700 to 5150m and the next hut. Nothing but snow up above the hut. At first there were only three other guys there Ian the scotsman and Ori and Tal from Israel. Then maybe another 15 people arrived who had all come straight from La Paz so the hut was real crowded. Dinner at 5pm was the first time Dave felt sick. In bed at 6pm then 6 hours of snoring coughing and farting-horrible. Glad to get up at 12am midnight and put on loads of clothes, plastic boots and crampons and set off, It is not too dark or cold but it is gently snowing. We are roped up with Irineo and very slowly climb the first snow slope. It is hard work but after a while we start to pass other groups. Climb a steep slope for about 50m and Dave feels like his body will explode. There is one other group at the top gasping for breath and we move ahead of them. Follow the icy rope moving whenever it pulls. Forever up until at some huge icicles we are told 5800m about 90 mins to the top. As it starts to come light see a huge steep snow slope ahead. We go across this at 45degs with a big drop and crevasses below. If one of us fell I think all three would have gone but maybe Irineo would have held us. As we are feeling sick with the altitude and nerves the slope reaches a small rock wall and we climb the snow beside this to the ridge. Great  view over the other side. Up the snow to the top says Irineo and we go a bit further. Youngmi sits happily on the little peak while Dave lies in the snow gripping his ice axe. Youngmi said after she felt very comfortable on her little peak at 6030m.
We watched the sunrise then saw all of the snowy mountains in the sunlight. A surprisingly long walk down, over two hours, revealled lots of giant icicles, crevasses and big snow slopes. 7 people out of 20 reached the top, the rest being stopped by altitude sickness. Back at the refuge we were knackered. No hunger and a bit sick. After 2 hours we descended to the lower refuge refused lunch and waited for the car back to La Paz. The smiling lady gave us mattresses and blankets so we could rest. Back in La Paz we both felt sick and Youngmi had pins and needles. The internet says these are signs of altitude sickness. Good thing we came down (We are wimps as our guide met another tourist at base camp and was doing the mountain again the next night).

After a short nap in La Paz decided we should try to eat something and went to Martinis our favourite pizza place. Youngmi looked at the pizza then rushed to the door throwing up before she got there. Dave assured the other diners it was altitude sickness not pizza poisoning but it seemed to reduce their appetite.

We made it. Our first 6000m mountain and the last for a while. We are lucky to be alive and lucky to have made it. We are particularly proud as we think we were the only climbers over 30. We still feel sick the day after and guess some other cñimbers are in a worse state.

An aside from Dave - our super tough guide watched me testing my blood sugar at the end of the climb and asked if I could test his. I think that is what he was saying in spanish. I put in a new needle and was about to prick his finger when he pulled away. ´No problema´ I said, grabbed his finger and pricked it. Needless to say he is not diabetic.

Down the Death Road in Bolivia

Album - Death Road Bike Ride, Bolivia

We finally went on the death road bike ride. We had put it off for a few days as Dave had a cold, it poured down every day and Youngmi said it was too dangerous. We asked a couple of people and one asked Dave how is your health and another said it was very popular with young people. At the end of the ride an aussie guy said to Dave you have done well for an old guy.

We were driven up through the jumbled streets of La Paz and then through wild mountain scenery to 4700m. Only 12kms from la Paz. There six of us put on the body armour and rode off down the surfaced road for 20kms. Huge mountains like Lord of the Rings country. Then onto the dirt road through the misty jungle. As the mist cleared we could see big drops from the road side and the occasional cross. 15 cyclists have died in the last few years by going over the side. The road is now closed to traffic but used to be the main! road and buses would also go over the side.

As Dave was the only person with a front suspension bike rather than full suspension (he saved $15) he got more out of the bumpy road.
After 64kms and 3500m of descent we reached the hot jungle like valley and lunch and a swim. The bike ride was tame compared with the bus ride back to La Paz. The new road was really good but there were enormous drops of the side as we climbed back to 4700m. We now have the death road T shirt from Barro Biking.

In the last week in La Paz there have been many highlights.
Toured San Francisco church and monastery with two young guides who are heavy metal fans. An evening at the theatre for Bolivian music and dancing -better than metal. Had dinner with Berthold a german music fan who could not decide when to leave and a 19 year old german couple one of whom had her bag slashed and passport and money taken.

Met Steve who we had last seen on the bus from El Chalten. In the meantime he had been back to England then gone to the caribean, Venezuela, Brazil and here. In the last few weeks he had been on boats on the Amazon including 3 days up the wrong river and three days back all while sleeping in a hammock and being the only english speaker on board.

Seen many museums, Evo Morales home which had lots of soldiers guarding it and the valley of the moon just south of La Paz.

Caught the local bus which wound its way up through the streets to El Alto.Said to be 600m higher than mid La Paz but seemed much higher. Incredible view of the city which is surrounded by high land. Very scary on the old bus as it stopped on steep hills to pick up more passengers.

Tasted Api, like Gluwein,in Hotel Torrino and watched tango dancing there. Many great meals especially the $4 four course lunches.

Last night we went to the home of Luis and his family who we met in Potosi and who lived in Sopacachi in La Paz. Lovely evening with lovely people. To get to their front door from the street we went up about 70 narrow steps. Not sure how furniture is delivered there.

Tomorrow we are off for three days to try to climb Huyuni Potosi 6088m.There first afternoon after a 4 hour walk we have 4 hours on a glacier learning crampon and ice axe technique for the final 700m which is on snow and will be climbed at night. Fingers crossed.

La Paz the highest city the world

La Paz, Bolivia

We have finally moved on after a last lovely few days in Sucre.
The carnival gathered momentum so that Tuesday was water throwing everywhere. Some of the bands continued playing the same tune and accompanying the soaked dancers until Tuesday evening then calm returned. The smell of urine in the streets Tuesday night was amazing then Wed all was clean and quiet again.

With the end of carnival the french restaurant La Taverna was open again and we went Wed with Laura and Howard, Thursday for a romantic dinner for two and Friday with Michael, Tatjana and Mica. Michael had his new fillings from the dentist and Tatjana had been cured by the potions from the which market.
We did some sight seeing the last couple of days and went to a school La Phillipe?It was a beautiful old building with courtyard and paintings and we climbed on the roof and into the bell tower for the best views.
We met Jim from Preston on the roof. He was possibly not in the best place as he had a couple of vertigo dizzy spells when he did a Jack Douglas.
Said goodbye to Renee, Benita and Margrite who had looked after us for 4 weeks at Casa Verde.
Flew to La Paz 40mins in a small Amazonias plane with a good view of the rocky land below. La Paz airport is in the middle of a big flat area with no sign of the city. Taxi drives for a few minutes then starts to descend into a big valley and there is La Paz clinging to the valley sides. Amazing view. About 500m below the airport is the heart of the city with lots of traffic, stalls at the roadside and ladies in Bowler hats. Our hostel for the first night was a bit damp and dismal and we have now moved into the Majestic Hotel. A good room with a view of Mt Illimani when it stops raining. 6400m and lots of snow. There is a thai, japanese and india restauarant on the ground floor. Something for everyone. We had a good lunch there but the chicken tikka masala was different to Accrington. We are also just around the corner from the witches market.

In looking for a new hostel we found some real dark dodgy looking places, the wild rover party hostel with beds? for 167 and what had been the home of the president in 1904.
Had lunch in a hotel restaurant from 1806 with tango music.$4.50 for 4 courses but it was freezing as the rain hammered down outside. I guess we should have tried Tango

Davids moving teeth

Dentist visit in sucre

Success. I have been to a Bolivian dentist and was impressed.
Amongst the many age related defects accumulating in my old body is loose teeth at the bottom front.I am now very long in the tooth.
A couple of years ago my aussie dentist stuck 6 teeth together and they remained pretty firm until I bit an apple in Patagonia. For the last few weeks one tooth has been trying to drop out.
A lucky recommendation from Irish Mike who is having all of his fillings replaced led to me visiting a lovely lady with a modern dentists room. She spent over an hour gently drilling then gluing the necessary teeth. No pain whatsoever despite no anaesthetic and a one way spanish lesson. I couldn't say much as I was in the dentists chair.

Carnival here gets wilder and wilder with water flying everywhere and the bands still marching the streets all day.
This afternoon we went to the witches market as we had been told lots of people were buying interesting things to give to Pachamama on Tuesday the last day of carnival. The witches market is in an obscure part of the enormous Mercado Campesino.We tried asking a couple of people for directions but they said there is no witches market. We had been told it was near the second hand clothes stalls so Youngmi asked two young ladies Donde este ropas segundo manos-where are the second hand clothes. When they gave us directions Youngmi followed up with can we buy dried llama foetuses near there. This must have gained something in translation as the ladies looked very puzzled.

There were lots of stalls all doing good trade. A bit like christmas eve in Australia. Two stalls had really long queues and we are told these ladies have really good potions. One packet had pictures which indicated that after taking the potion a man could lift 3 kgs without using his hands or feet.
We plan to go to La Paz on Sat to continue our travels and try our spanish

Carnival in Sucre Bolivia

Carnival in Sucre

 Click the picture to open the album.

Dave is in heaven with the Sucre carnival. For the last few nights whenever you go in the streets you meet brass bands, dancers and water fights. These seemed to reach a climax Friday night when assisted by gentle rain everyone was soaked or covered in foam or both. Youngmi and a few other think this is childish even though she wears a $1 plastic poncho to avoid the worst.

Today Saturday the sun was back for a big parade.
Spanish lessons continue to have little effect on a poor student.
Youngmi has had a cold all week and avoided most of the lessons. She has been helped by Doctors Hernan and Howard who were staying at Casa Verde and prescribed alternatives to dried llama foetus from the witch market. Our friend Tatiana swears by this natural remedy and a mexican masseuse.

Life in Sucre continues to be good. The only fly in the ointment has been a one week battle with swiss air and STA travel to change the last flight on our 12 month round the world ticket from 1 Sept to 30 Oct. We could only book flights 10 months in advance before we left although we had a 12 month ticket. No problem said STA just call swiss air after a couple of months and they will change the flight at no cost.

Calling swiss air from Bolivia was not easy and swiss air said no. STA said we are too busy to help you. After many calls and emails STA say it will be changed but it will take two weeks! Not to worry I can hear another brass band coming along the road. I will grab a few globus con agua ( small balloons filled with water and get out there.

Hasta luego

In Sucre 2 weeks and 2 salsa classes later

The Casa Verde continues to be wonderful and we are now booked in until 14 Feb. If anyone wants a chat on skype this is the time as the internet connection is the best we have had. Life in Sucre for us is really comfortable. Dave swims every afternoon as is starting to recover the magnificent body he had when we left Australia. This is a good thing for the salsa classes helping him to glide stiffly around the floor.

More in Sucre

A typical day here is breakfast from 7.30 of fruit juice, fruit, yoghurt, cereal, bacon and eggs, bread and jam and coffee all enjoyed whilst trying to chat in spanish with the other guests. Renee our host now serves Dave sugar free youghurt and jam as a special diabetic breakfast. How good is that.

The school is just around the corner which is lucky as it runs from 8.30 to 12.30. One to one classes so no chance to take it easy. Lunch somewhere in town often in the gardens of casa de tourista. Four course lunch for $2.5 though the last main course appeared to be chicken wings, not my favourite.

It is usually hot and sunnny until about 5pm when it hammers down with rain. Most of the house roofs have drain pipes which extend over the pavement so it is easy to get soaked. Study in the afternoon and in the evening dinner and often a free film in the joyride cafe. Films on Evo Morales and Che are just right for us. Hong Kong chinese, La viego Bodego and a french place La taverna all do great meals for less than $15 for 2. Last night was filet mignon. What a life.

Feeling a bit guilty with this good life we helped out at an orphanage playing with and feeding lots of kids under 2. Afterwards went to the Parque Bolivar, climbed the eiffel tower, watched lots of water bags being thrown and joined the music and dancing.

Had dinner with a korean family  who have lived here 15 years. Youngmi was ecstatic to have a korean barbecue and kimchi.

Last Friday we tried a Bolivian hospital which was very good. Youngmi paid $5 for an appointment with Dr Pope. What is wrong he asked in spanish. I am tired. Yes but where is the pain? I am tired. Blood pressure and heart were fine and Youngmi was prescribed a bottle of multivitamin juice. After taking this we went to the school disco party and Youngmi took the event by storm dancing gangnam style for 2 hours. Dave has now bought multivitamins to try to keep up.

We swopped teachers today to try to make the spanish more exciting.
Dave is off to the dentist tonight in the hope that two very loose teeth can be stuck in.

It is carnival in Bolivia at the weekend and there are parades and music in thetreet as a warm up. Some dancing guys said to Youngmi  are you a China? no korean and they danced off gangnam style.