Bariloche, Argentina

El Bolson, Argentina

Bariloche, Argentina

Penthouse 1004, Bariloche

After Esquel, we moved to Bariloche. On the way, we stopped in El Bolson for a day. We were expecting an exotic hippy town in El Bolson, but it didnt look much like a hippy place. There was a tango festival, and we went for a free tango lesson, but it was cancelled when we went there.

Bariloche is a lovely place. Being on the edge of Patagonia, it becomes very windy and cold. We had unusual warm and sunny days after we arrived, so we went trekking to Cerro Catedral and Cerro Otto. It was a tough walk, but it was very much worth watching amazing scenery.

We are staying at Penthouse 1004 in Bariloche the most beautiful place ever. We are on the 10th floor of an apartment block looking down the lake. The view can be seen from the lounge dining room and kitchen.

Decorations are lovely including a xmas tree now. There is background music from my days Vangelis, REM,ABBA, Simon and Garfunkel. About 40 guests who chat eat and drink wine and it is quiet at night so we sleep well. No football teams here.Everything perfect. Four days of good weather have changed to a big storm which looks amazing from here. This place is so good

Walks in Bariloche

Cerro Catedral Walk, Bariloche - Lynch to Frey

Another Cerro Catedral Walk - Frey to Lynch

Refugio Lopaz, Bariloche

The cathedral walk was superb. A bus to the ski resort at 1000m then 2.5hours climbing under the chair lifts in hot hot sun to 2000m.

A little higher we could see the Bates Motel from Psycho on the sky line but luckily we climbed to a col for a huge very clear view of mountains glaciers lakes and the next deep forested valley over 1000m below.

A well marked path continued across scree with a huge drop. Then it was climbing over boulders and outcrops for a hour with one visit from a Condor. At the end of this amazing high level walk we turned to Refugio Frey and more scrambing and snow crossing. The scenary made us feel so good unlike the 3 hour walk back from the refugio through the forest to the ski resort and bus home. A great walk matched by the best hostel ever.

Dave went back to Catedral for the third time. Someone in the hostel said Dave might be addicted to walking or a little bit psychotic.

Esquel, Argentina

Esquel, Argentina

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After 6 wonderful days in El Chalten including three 25km walks to Mt Fitzroy it was time to move on.
Our last day was forecast to be rain and I had visions of sitting in the Albergue Patagonia watching the rain hammer down but it was sun again so we had more great views. On the day we left it was raining but Manchester drizzle not a storm. After 2 hours on the bus the road north was unsealed and very slippy. The bus slid around and made slow progress but after another five hours got back to a proper surface.Most of the way was flat as far as the eye could see. Was El Chalten a dream?
We will be at the overnight stop stop by 7.30pm said one driver just before there was crunching ,lots of black smoke and the bus stopped. As we had not seen another vehicle for 2 hours this was interesting. The road and landscape was similar to Australia in being very empty. After an hour the bus started moving at 5kms an hour . As we had 180kms to go this was not too promising. Eventually we were back to normal speed. Found an outback pub, had a drink and reached Perito Moreno at 10pm 13 hours after we started.

Youngmi was not impressed by the smelly hotel but any port in a storm. Next day another bus to Esquel and a lovely journey on a sealed road with good scenary and a great English speaking drivers mate so we new what was happening.
Esquel back in mountains some with snow but the biggest place we have seen for ages. Lots of shops, great hostel ,old steam train, the Patagonian Express and a lovely American couple who made delicious soup for the whole hostel. No hot water in our great hostel so we tried another YH around the corner and moved in.
Today I was excited as we were going to Trevellyn a Patagonian welsh town. We caught the local bus and found the town which may be the worst place we have been. Most was closed and the one open Welsh tea room refused to serve us as they wanted to close from 12 noon to 3.30pm. The door said they would close at 12.30 so maybe they were taking no chances. One couple in there had cycled from Peru and said they were also told the couldn't have anything. We visited the hostel in town and were told it was closed forever
A bit like Little Britain -Trevellyn says no. THe good thing was there was a regular bus service back so we could escape. Booked bus tickets for El Bolson tomorrow so we move on again.
Five weeks since we set off and we have been lucky so far with good places, weather and lovely people. Trevellyn reminded us how good things are in general.
Argentina to date more expensive than expected but there is always a plce down the road that people say will be cheaper-like looking for El Dorado

El Chalten, Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitzroy

El Chalten, Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitzroy are wonderful. The weather could not be better with hot sun, blue skies and the most amazing long white clouds. We can see the snow topped mountains and huge granite spires from the town. The paths lead up through trees and meadows and then the mountains reappear. Lakes and glaciers everywhere. A final steep climb to below Cerro Fitzroy and then a frozen lake and two little figures climbing up the snow on the first stage of a five day summit attempt.

We have been blessed so far meeting lovely people, having good weather, seeing great sights, staying in good hostels and usually getting hot water for tea. Spanish is a challenge but fun. No tango dancing yet but one salsa night. Drinking mate the Argentian tea is good but the local wine is better malbec,camerone grapes are good and the Don David was the best so far. Friday night in El Chalten lets see what happens.

El Chalten, Argentina

After a 2hour bus ride, we arrived in El Chalten. People started clicking camera shutters while approaching the city. Mountains we saw in Torres del paine, chile was just an introduction to patagonia. Before entering to town, the bus stopped at the information center. A retired army looking bloke got onto the bus and told everyone to get out. We all went into the center to listen to his lecture. He gave us instroductions about rules people must follow while tracking the area. All waters coming from the mountain are drinkable without any processing. No enterance fee not like other national parks in patagonia. What can we ask more. The guy's lecture was working as we could not see any rubbish from 28km long walks.

From the bus station, we walked to the hostel and rang the bell. No one was answering. After a half hour waiting, a door was open with a lady's face popping out. She said she was taking a shower. We were guided to a corner room from outside. It was an ensuite room, but that was all. We could not access a kitchen. No free hot water! David went in a panic until the lady brought a pot of tea. Dave calmed down after drinking hot tea. We then set off to a walk for Lago Torres. It was a classic walk combining the whole W-walk in Torres Del Paine. We were very lucky with ghe weather. Sunshing with no winds. Quite unususl weather for Patagonia. We were extremely happy.

A nightmare soon after followed. When we got back to hodtel, the reception room was locked with a sign saying will be right back. We waited an hour and squeezed a note into the keywhole. Where ate you?? David became extremely unhappy. Everyone knows heeds a hot tea after a long walk. This could not hsppen. They claimed 24hour reception, but the lady didnt come back till next morning. As soon as he got up, Dave went to the reception to complain. The lady said she would give a free night or a full refund. We got refund and moved to another hostel. The hostel was a similar as there was no kitchen. But the owner lady gave us a kettle, so we were happy. There were two huge dogs with the owner family. Dave left his bread outside the bench for a second, and one of the dogs started eating it. Dave took the bread back and ate it.

Next two days we did great walks. A classic walk to Mt Fiz Roy was so popular. Many people could not make to the lake and had to turn back, but they were still happy. The best tracking place in the whole world. We hope it stays as is.

photos from el chalten...

youngmi and dave

El Calafate, Argentina

A 12 hour bus ride to Usuaia was long enough and tiring, so we decided to fly from usuaia to el calafate. The departure area was in chaos as our flight was delayed from 9:40am to 11:00am. We kept on windging, and somebody said to us that we are blessed because we are in Usuaia. Dave said we would be blessed if we can leave Usuaia.

We arrived in a very lovely hostel, but we had to move to another one because no rooms were availabe next few days. We admired the argentinian bbq while we were having our pasta for dinner. We could not delay our dinner till 9:30pm, but hostel said it's an early dinner for argentinians because their dinner usually starts at 11pm.

There was a panic in town amongst travellers with a worry that they might not get cash out from ATM machines during long weekend. Many accomodations and shops don't accept credit card. People who were heading towards El Chalten had to run to an ATM machine when they heard there are no ATM machines there.

We kept on looking or friend Albert that we met in Usuaia. When we went to see Glacier Perito Moreno, there he was with his lady friend from Buenos Aires. He was hoping to see her ever since he arrived in south america, so we were so happy to see them.

Glacier was incredible. It is one of few glaciers still expanding. Every now and then there were raoring sounds when a piece of ice fell off to the lake. We didnt want to leave the place, but we had run to catch the 4 o'clock bus.

photos from el calafate...

youngmi and dave

Ushuaia, Argentina

After a long bus ride from Punt Arenas, Chile, we arrived in Uhsuaia, Argentina. We checked in a hostel that was hactic with young argentinian indoor footballers. They shook the whole place. Too much going on even before getting used to the new currency. We were lucky to meet Albert from Catalan. He said he comes from Barcelona, but his name is not Manuel. Being clever but not a wizard, he gave us a lot of good tips to survive in super expensive Ushuaia.

Next day, we moved to another hostel called freestyle. The place was much better but there was another group of footballers. It seemed like footballers booked out the whole city. After moving to a new place, we found out our camera and Youngmi's credit card are missing. We were too naive not puttung our bags in a locked storage while staying in 6bed dorm. Lucky we brought a spare camera and credit card. To get a certificate for insurance claim, we visited 4 police stations. They could not speak in english, so they sent us to other police stations. We finally got a certificate. We should keep it as a souvenier.

While staying in Ushuaia, checked excursions to antarctica. We decided not to go for it this time. We met many people we met on the ferry to puetro natales. Later Alice and Thorsten joined us to the same hostel. We had a walk to glacier martial. A delightful street dog guided us all the way to the summit. She was like a gypsi, so called her as Natasia. Later we were amazed to meet a couple in El Calafate showing photos of the dog they met in Ushuaia.

Missing the best and cheap empanada shop up on the hill and the delightful street dog in Ushuaia,

photos from ushuaia

youngmi and david

Puerto Natales and a wonderful hostel lili patagonia

photos from puetro monte, chile

and here for photos from ferry


and patagonia..

We have had a great week with superb sunny weather. Unusual for Patagonia we are told. Pouring rain as we left Pucon for a six hour bus trip through the Lake District to Puerto Monte.Arriving at the bus station it was a good moveto get a taxi up the hill to the hostel as there was no name on the building.Old wooden houses on the hillsides and the attractions of a port were interesting.A good night around the kitchen table eating bread and avacados as there were no pans to cook.With good company and chilean camanere red wine.
Youngmi bought mammot walking boots next morning before we boarded the navimag ferry.The sun was shining and dolphins  swimming as we cruised off into the fiords for a four day trip. We met many lovely people on the boat the food was good and the scenery magnificant.Only one tiny town Puerto Eden otherwise no people or buildings for four days.Sailed close to a glacier watched Wolfgang sunbathing as we walked the deck.Mentioned Berlosconi to an Italian couple -we love him.
Puert Natales we stayed in Casa Lili cant win them all.The bed bent in the night and the old wooden building shook more than the boat. Next morningwent with Katya and Alice to Torres del Paine national Park.Again beautiful weather.Bus fares, park entrance fees and a dorm bed in a refugio for 52dollars were designed to suck loads of money from you but once we walked it was magnificent.We walked the three legs of the W walk. The towers were awesome, the French valley very windy and the grey glacier huge and lit by the sun.

The Grande Paine refgio was really good with stunning views and unlimited hot water for tea. After a 30km walk to the glacier we had 90 mins before the catamaran back to the bus home. I attempted to have a shower but the water was cold.I walked naked to the next shower but it was also cold so I got dressed and stepped out of the shower to find a lady in the bathroom.I had been in the ladies bathroom. I felt like Basil Fawlty trying to explain why he was in a lady,s room.
Back in Puerto Natales we have moved into Lili Patagonica hostel wondereful.
Ensuite room big sunny lounges lovely staff and guests
Dave and Youngmi

Pucon under the Volcan Villarica

We finally left a red hot Santiago after five days and many great people. We had booked sleepers on the overnight bus to Pucon and had an easy ride to the bus station at 9pm. The bus terminal was hot and had    about 500 buses and 10,000 people. With 5 mins to go our bus arrived without my bed. The seats were very comfy and we slept well.We looked at the volcano but didnt climb it. Went salsa dancing instead. Very friendly good hostel with another party night for the managers birthday. Tried and liked camarone grape.
Tomorrow Jacs bus to Puerto Mont then a four day ferry trip down the coast past glaciers and fjords to Patagonia. No internet on the boat but we will carry on lots of wine to go with the included meals.
More next week if all goes well. Time for a bath now.

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Hello from Chile

hola!

youngmi y dave estan en santiago. 

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and here..