40 years reunion and Scotland

North Wales

Having spent two wonderful days with John and Margaret in Dorset we moved on to Pen y Pass hostel in North Wales. Glorious weather gave us the chance to go along Crib Goch and up Snowdon. This is the highest mountain in Wales and the first of the three peaks.Superb day with Youngmi leading a swiss guy past the point of no return and about 50 jewish boys in traditional clothes near the summit. Youngmi thought they might be welsh.

Reunion

Back to Keith and Junes and a problem with a blocked toilet. Despite Youngmis best efforts with tree branches, chemicals and a bendy sink cleaning rod the toilet remained blocked. We cleared off hoping Keith and June could suceed where we had failed and leaving branches sticking out of the toilet. To Lancaster to celebrate 40 years since we walked the Pennine Way. Met John and Margaret, Martin and Jill, Phil and Mandy and Phil and Joan. A walk along the canal, champagne then dinner at the Broughton in Lancaster all lovely.Even better as our friends had booked the hotel way in advance and got the miser rate.

Next day a walk near Arnside with Martin and Jill then off to Scotland. Beautiful sunny day. Visited the car rental at Glasgow airport to record Youngmis new driving licence. A very helpful guy sorted everything and chatted in a complex glasgow accent that left Youngmi completely baffled. Along Loch Lomond and past high mountains to a comfy bead and breakfast in Glencoe. The mountains are so big. Longest day and still light at 11.30pm.

Ben Nevis

Pouring next day but set off up Ben Nevis. Cold and wet to the lake then got better and better. Lots of snow and maybe 10,000 people. The highest mountain in Scotland and second of the three peaks.

Loch Ness

Even better B& B Briars at Loch Ness. The host wore a kilt and carried a big sword. Two deer in the garden and sightings of the monster.

Inverness

John O Groats

Rain on Sunday for a drive through Inverness, Dunrobin castle,Wick, John o groats and Thurso. Sky very low, rain very hard and everything grey. A drop of whisky with dinner brightened things up and then a meeting with Liz and Neil who we met in Patagonia made for a good night.

Drove along a single track road along the top of Scotland. Grand scenery and felt very remote. Past the old Dounreay fast breeder reactor. Now closed and being used to try decommissioning methods for the nuclear waste. Dave cycled here 34 years ago and stood on the core when the power station operated as this was part of the tour. Maybe Dave got a bit of radiation on the brain.

Dur Ness

Tongue, Durness both a bit bleak even with the chocolate cafe. More narrow roads to the tiny harbour for Handa Island. We had missed the last boat but a beautiful view and restaurant makes it all worthwhile. At the harbour two fishermen introduced Youngmi to their crabs.

Very comfy night in a great new hostel in Lochinver. The timiest road ever to Stac Polly mountain and a great scramble along the ridge. Ullapool lovely in the sun as we have fish and chips with an older german lady and watch the feryr go Lewis and Harris.On to Torridon and the youth hostel. Very well run and curry for dinner.The bottle of whisky that I tried to give to Lindsay and then to John is finally finished and has been a great success.

Ben Eighe

The weather forecast is good for the day with cloud on mountain tops. Climb Beinn Eighe rushing to stay ahead of a german couple. Stunning walk along mountain tops and the cloud lifted so all is clear.Liathach mountain looks splendid.Rocky climb down past the Triple Buttress to a lake and then a three hour walk back. Hard work but sun and scenery are are amazing.

Applecross and Sky

Phoned Keith from the mountain top and he said go to see my mate in Applecross. His mate is not there but Applecross on this sunny evening is gorgeous. Dinner in the pub looking across to the Isle of Skye. Camp next to beach near three aging musicians who have a campfire. Raining in the morning and Skye has gone. Drive to Kyle of Lochalsh, over bridge to Skye, back past Eileen Donnell castle to Fort William and dinner in Morrisons.

Stirling

Bed and Breakfast in Glencoe is full so onto Oban. One street of horrible B&Bs that all want $100 for a room. Find a better place for less.Pouring next morning as walk around Oban  but atmospheric. Old church on Loch Awe, lunch in Killin near Clan Mcnab burial ground, Stirling tour including pub with musicians and back to Accy.

Hebden Bridge

Soon off to Hebden Bridge for a night with Phil and Mandy. Phil can hardly walk as he had cycled 600km at the weekend.He takes us for a walk to loosen his achilles tendon. Then Mandy arrives for dinner and cannot walk much better. She has run 40km at the weekend climbing 10,000 metres of mountains in the Lake district. Two nights later they are driving to the Alps for climbing. We realise we need to lift our game.

Next morning go to see Doug who was in the army with Daves dad and shared the same birthday. Doug at 86 has just driven 200km back from his caravan in Wales where he goes sailing. We again realise we have to lift our game. Doug takes us for a slap up lunch athe Robin Hood pub that his daughter and hubbie own. We then watch Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid for the Bolivian connection in front of Dougs coal fire. Next we are off into town for slap up fish and chips. What a wonderful day.

Stefs Allotment

Barnsley

A night on the allotment with cousin Stef and his family and the chickens and another night in Ackworth with Steve and Liz are all good fun. Heat wave again as we walked to the Yorkshire sculpture park.

We made two visits to the Whalley Road church that Daves mum went to, met many friendly folk and once heard Marshall preach.

Scattering Ashes

On the Sunday with all the family we carried mum and dads ashes to the top of the Coppice, the hill overlooking Accy. We mixed them together as they wanted. We planted a new tree near a xmas tree then we and the children scattered the 'fairy dust ' there for Mum and Dad. It was such a hot day just what they loved. On to the Calfs Head and a great meal in the perfect setting of the beer garden. It all felt right.

Lakes District

Monday we packed ready to move on and Tuesday we drove to the Lake District to climb Scafell Pike, the highest mountain in England and the last of the three peaks. It was so hot and took seven hours of fast walking but what a great day. Luckily we took much more water than usual and we needed all of it.
Ray came to Keith and June's in the evening and we had a good chat.

USA and Canada

Ferry to Statten Island past the statue of liberty

We flew with Spirit Air from Colombia to Fort Lauderdale Florida. Arrived late so they put us in a hotel for the night. Great hotel with a pool for a night time swim. The $7 dinner voucher didn't go far. Arrived a day late in New York. Pan American hotel in Queens was good. Subway to Manhatten then hot sun as we walked amongst the sky scrapers and sailed past the Statue of Liberty. Dinner in China Town of the best dumplings since Melbourne.

4 days in New York were great then bus trip to Washington,Niagara Falls,Toronto.

New York

Central Park, Times Square which is a district not a square (very confusing for europeans),Wall Street, 9/11 site all very exciting. Then met Carla and Stephen at a korean restaurant near Rocherfeller Centre. Carla worked at the Virgin Gym in Melbourne before moving to New York last October and meeting Stephen. They gave us a wonderful time including a late visit to Times Square with the crowds. Fantastic.
Breakfast everyday at the Nevada Diner near the hotel. Great breakfast,service and price. Dave was so happy. More coffee sir? Most waiters spoke spanish so it was like a very comfy south america.

Strawberry Fields Central Park John Lennon memorial

With Carla and Stephen who looked after us for two evenings in New York. Magic time

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Catching up with Carla and Stephen in NYC

Met Carla and Stephen again that night at their Queens apartment looking over to Manhattan. Better than Frasiers apt. What a view.Dinner with them looking across the river to the skyscrapers. Good luck to you both in the big apple. New York was exciting, friendly and much easier than we expected. Museums were $25 to get in so we only visited MOMA on the free Friday night. About 200,000 people had the same idea so it was packed but great fun.

Empire State Buliding, Greenwich,New York Library and United Nations in the rain then back for introductory meeting of our two week Intrepid Tour at the hotel. Welcome from Alex and request to sign a form. What is it? Standard disclaimer everyone signs. It said we took all responsibilty for injuries on the trip including when travelling in the van. We refused to sign and got the original terms and conditions from our booking. These said they were the entire contract so this form was a change and not for our benefit. You may not be able to go on the trip if you dont sign. We are not signing. A bad first night. We were also asked for a higher kitty payment than in the booking and told camping in Boston is no good so we should pay extra and stay in a hotel. This was worse than South America with lots of unexpected changes and costs and it was much more expensive than South America at AU$ 1560 for two weeks camping with food extra.

The morning of the departure and the leader says we can go on the trip without signing their acknowledgement of risk and lets have a good time. We were not impressed with Intrepid and will go to see them when back in Melbourne.

Philadelpia

Philadelphia lovely historic city from indepence days. Rocky steps and Philly steak sandwich.

Washington DC

Washington great campsite with hot tub.

Breafast three sugary cereals. I put on booking form dietery requirements I am diabetic.We can buy something else for tomorrow. Lack of organisation from Intrepid.

Good day in Washington seeing museums, capitol hill, White house and Lincoln memorial. Red hot and livened up by an Occupy demo. Pretty relaxed but police had tear gas ready.

Long drive through Pennsylvania seeing Amish people in horse and cart on the way. Camped near Niagara and saw the falls at night. Next morning into Canada and only a small stamp in Youngmis fast filling emergency passport.Maid of the mist  boat tour is excellent under the falls but on stepping ashore Dave realises he has lost his money belt. Panic.He last saw it in the toilets when he moved it to the inside pocket of his rain coat but this wasn't a pocket. A lady at the ticket office near the toilets says to a near crazy Dave I think we have good news for you. A chinese guy handed in a money belt he found in the toilets and it was Dave's. So lucky and grateful.

Algonquin National Park

Niagara Falls

Toronto is huge and hot. At the campground we meet Daves cousin Neil, Aunty Marion and Uncle Derek.
Marion and Derek have lived in Toronto for thirty five years and Neil is visiting them. Neil drives us in hid dads beautiful Jaguar car through Toronto and to their house in Oshawa. Although this is a suburb of Toronto it is about 50kms away. Lovely chat at their house and see a photo of Jenette.We try to go to a pub for a meal but there is an ice hockey game on TV and the pub is packed. Big as aussie rules football in Melbourne.Dinner at the Boston pizza diner then back to Marion and Derek's house for a cup of tea.Thanks to Neil for driving us all over Toronto

Totonto

Red hot as we leave Toronto then colder and greyer as we go north into the forests. Pouring down in Algonquin park. Lunch in visitor centre then rain stops and we put up tents. Cold and windy as three people go canoeing. The rest of us go for a walk. We hear but can't see moose in the forest. Dave tries to imitate a bear sound by breaking a branch but merely succeeds in hitting himselg in the face with the branch bending his glasses and cutting his cheek.

Dinner around campfire and snow during night. Our giant $30 sleeping bags from New York keep us warm while one of the swiss guys freezes.

Next stop Ottowa and a helpful optometrist to straighten Daves glasses. Big buildings and a huge tower to go up in the parliament building. Locks on the canal just like Bingley but bigger

Montreal

Raining in Montreal but we are in a hostel which is nice and warm. Dinner in the blind restaurant which is completely dark. Can't use a nice and fork but fingers work well in dark.Explore the city the next day in the rain.All signs in French and many people speaking french. Old city and harbour full of character. Big old warehouse has many art exhibitions one of which is serving free wine-great art. Climb up hill to a chateau overlooking city. Great dinner in a korean restaurant that night. All koreans except Dave.

Quebec City

Still raining as we continue to Quebec. Rent cabins on campsite.Quebec old city on a hill next to St Lawrence river. Saw the site of the battlefield and General Wolfes death. Grand chateau type hotel and old streets. Said to be having dinner at a street market but there isn't one until July.

Acadia National Park

Back to the US and little towns have flags out for veterans memorial day.Sun shining as we reach Acadia.

Next day big walk through national park along Rockerfeller roads, lake shore and surprisingly big rocky climb to highest point. Great view over hills and ocean.Excited as the path down has iron ladders but the biggest only has 10 rungs.Get water at visitor centre and rangers are impressed by our big walk.
In town have a lobster sandwich in waterfront bar. Back at campground Alex puts live lobsters in big pans of boling water with potatoes and sweetcorn.After a few minutes the lobsters are pink and delicious. The best meal.
Drive to mountain top for sunrise over Atlantic. Very beautiful but early.

Boston

On again for a few hours to Boston. Lots of characters and things to see. Walk the Indepedence trail to Bunker Hill site of fight with British. Cheers bar is worth a visit but the Irish pubs nearby are much better value. $2 pints, chicken wings and entertainment Dave is in heaven. People remember it is Dave who insisted on camping as we arrive at the campground in thunder and lightening about 11pm to put the tents up as it starts to pour down.

Next day have breakfast in a Diner in Plymouth. The diner breakfast is again superb. Plymouth really nice in the sun and we visit the rock where the pilgrim fathers stepped ashore. Camp at Providencia on Cape Cod. Go swimming in the ocean and watch seals bobbing up and down.

Back to New York and Pan American. Hot again so off to Central Park. Lots of dancing.On tube to Staten Island ferry next day meet a guy with cowboy boots who is from Texas. Reminds me of the Midnight cowboy character.

USA and Canada really good but get time we hire a car and do it ourselves.

Last full day in South America- robbers permitting

Monday and out last full day in South America. We are back in Cartagena. The sun is strong and it looks like it will be 34degrees same as yesterday and about 30degress hotter than Montreal where we are headed.

Taganga was perfect for lots of days of rest and relaxation. We swam, read, ate filet mignons, used the internet and sat on the hotel roof drinking cold beer and looking over the ocean. Every day was hot and sunny until we went to Minca in the hills. Lovely jungle type place but after being there a few minutes there was torrential rain. The wet season has started said someone. We were told the area was safe for walking but it felt strange. There had been lots of paramilitary activity there until 2006.

Album - Minca, Colombia

We had a few short walks. One to a coffee farm. There was a cafe but no coffee. The guy there stared into the dstance and said slowly to Youngmi the coffee farm is here. He could see something we couldnt. We also met a happy irish man who told us he had bought a hillside and hoped to do some building. They are all drug dealers says Youngmi. Hotel Minca was nice with lots of humming birds and a big coloured parrot. Happilly not in the bedroom.

Next morning Youngmi reluctanly agreed to come for a three hour walk to Hostel Semilla. Nice track lots of jungly trees. Mangoes everwhere so we collected a few. Semilla hostel beautiful. In a clearing on a hillside.You had to walk the last part of the way there. A colombian lady and swiss guy had built it. No elecricity but so relaxing.

Album - Taganga, Colombia

Back to Minca and taxi to Taganga. Time for a swim then beer on the roof. The next day it is pouring. The rainy season had started. For the last week the weather kept changing and so did our plan to go to Tayrona Park. You sleep in a hammock and there are lots of mosquitos. Too hard. Met great people at the Casa de Felippe. All the staff were helpful and smiling. Gardens beautiful and the kitchen team of Dominc and Daniel the best.Towards our last night the filet mignon was accompanied by suberb bread and a glass of Chilean red. Youngmi praided the red wine sauce and secured us a lesson the nex day. The suace takes 4 hours to make with lots of slow cooking. Butter and red onions are fried then red wine added and simmered until it is absorbed the onions then stock sauce and tomato sauce and more red wine. For military service in France Domininc had worked in the bakery of a nuclear sub for one year.

Met a young English guy who had travelled for four years but in the last three months and got dengue fever then malaria. He had been very sick but was now recovering enough to plan to fly back to UK in a few days. Better being robbed than being so sick.

On our last afternoon on the beach Youngmi shouted they are being attacked. Two backpackers with rucksacks were attacked by two guys with knives as they walked down steps at the far end of the beach. They fought them off and then about 10 police gave chase. Unfortunately this is our main impression of Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. We are on guard all the time now and often dont go to places because it might not be safe. I have never been so restricted in my walking. We have met many lovely people but the few dodgy ones give everything an edge that it would be better without.

Back to Cartagena on Sunday night and the hotel el viajero. Air con a welcome change. Great internet so we could print flight and hotel vouchers. Hope we spend our last night on the chiva rhumba tour an open sided bus partying around in the warm night air. After months of being high up and cool the red hot coastal weather has been a complete change. Variety is the spice of life.

We read the liberator of South America Simon Bolivar was knackered after several years of travelling around Colombia Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela and fighting a few battles. I can understand. He went to Santa Marta next to Taganga and after a few days died in his bed.  Happily we can fly to New York.

Half way-after 6 months we are on the Caribean coast of Colombia

Album - Medillin, Colombia

The overnight bus to Medellin was uneventful for me as I slept most of the time.Youngmi said there was a police check in the night and all the bags were pulled out. She got out to keep an eye on the police.

Black Sheep hostel in Medellin was good. Lots of apartment blocks make Medellin look prosperous.
A walking tour of the city for 5 hours was a great success. Our guide had grown up in the city and said when we was at school much of the city was a no go area with bombings and shootings by Pablo Escobar and his drug cartel. Now much improved and big modern libraries have been built in most areas to encourage education instead of guns. He led us through the old centre which still looked very dodgy. Lots of locals staring at us. They are not used to tourists said our guide. In one area lots of low class cocaine being smoked-we were told.
There was an advert at the hostel for the Escobar family tour. Meet the family.
Another day metro to cable car station then with same ticket cable car up through three stations in the poor area. 5 minute walk through very lively streets to the library. Lots of locals using free computers -mainly for facebook as in the hostels.

Another ticket and cable car went on for 20mins up to a national park. Very nice and great view down to city. Risked one night out for dinner with Kathryn a Melbourne lady in Medellin for a few weeks. Went to the very smart Zona Rosa by taxi both ways. So many people.
Medellin was much better than expected and we then flew for $63 to Cartagena. Better than 14 hour bus ride. Cartagena red hot as expected but see not very blue. Old city nice and had recovered from Sir Francis Drake robbing the place in 1565 ish.
We were about to leave an Indian restaurant becuase we didnt have enough money. Pay what you have and enjoy yourselves said the manager. Very good idea.
Safe inside old city after dark so we stayed there.
Big modern hotels a bit like surfers paradise down the road. Two had all inclusive packages for $100 a night but terrible reviews on Trip Adviser.
Minibus for 5 hours to Taganga near Santa Marta. Followed other passengers into Casa de Felippe hostel which was a very good move.Gardens, terraces and a fantastic filet mignon cooked by the french chef and cheap beer.Three days of swimming, lying on the nice sandy beach ,clearing away street dogs and watching for robbers a pleasant change. Had dinner with Evelyne and Stefan who we were surprised to find had been in town for a week diving.
6 month dinner tonight.Filet mignon I guess.
In the heat of the day spent ages on the internet booking our flight to New York for 14 May, a hotel in New York for 5 days Pan American and a two week intrepid trip New york, Washington, Niagara,Quebec, Boston and places in between
Fly to Manchester to arrive Monday afternoon 3 June.
We have also spent heaps of time communicating with Peter in Melbourne who is very kindly helping us to apply for a replacement citizenship certificate for Youngmi and gathering lots of documents for the subsequent full passport application. So much paperwork.Thanks Peter and enjoy the Shiraz expo at Dan Murphys on Sunday.
Thanks also to Columbus direct insurance who have paid out our insurance claims from the robbery and noted their will be further costs for the passport.
Back to the beach for my 5pm swim

Colombia

Album - Popoyan, Colombia

We took another 45 minute taxi ride to the US embassy. At 11.45 we were told they were shut for lunch and come back at 2pm. Unbelievable. Youngmi was like Basil Fawlty holding her head in her hands and going no ,no.The most wonderful security guard asked if what was wrong and he said he would try to find someone. We only needed to collect the passport with US visa and had been told it would be ready.Someone let her in and it then transpired the visa was processed but not printed. You must come back at 2pm. Nothing to do around the US embassy for 2 hours. Got the visa, taxi back, completed lots of docs for Youngmis citizenship copy application. Tried to post to Peter in Melbourne who is helping us try to get a new passport but couldnt find the post office. People kept directing us until we were going nuts with frustration.Another pizza for dinner. Lucky the Lauberge hostel was so good.
Posted docs the next morning while Youngmi tried to recover from all the traumas. A guy from Iraq told us how he went to the US embassy in Bagdad to get a US visa. Sounded dreadful.
Sat and off to Colombia. Taxi to bus station. Bus left after 19mins, Great scenery but usual coming and going of passengers had us gripping our bag firmly.5 hours later arrive in Tulcan and meet two koreans. Share taxis and border crossing with them. The guy was shouting at anyone he could find in korean.

Very strange- Ipialles to Pasto in a real luxury Bolivarian bus. Big mountains. Koala Inn hostel in Pasto had seen better days but Luis the manager was real nice and told us where it wasn´t safe to go on Sat night,basically most of the town. Had a little walk Sun morning and most people seemed to stare at us.20 seat bus Pasto to Popoyan turned into an epic journey.6.5hours of windy roads. Great mountains then red hot lower land. Jairo the conductor was finding passengers everywhere while Youngmi gripped her bag. About 10 fruit sellers got on at one point. Added to 20 passengers this appeared total chaos. Lots of army posts along the road and every bridge had army at each end,
Popoyan another white colonial town. Nice enough. Park life hostel which had a father ted film night first night. Museums and churches day one. Next day hostel outing to Sylvia for an indigineous market. First bus turns back because of guerilla activity. 6 of us at the bus station deciding what to do.Another bus company says the trouble is one hour past Sylvia and they will take us there. Two english lads Jack and Tom aged 19 are with us. Jack has taught english in Bogota for 9 months and says we should have our passports in case there is an army check.We never take ours out of the hotel if we can avoid it .Get another bus and have no trouble. Loads of indigenous people in the town. Men and womend dressed same boots, blue skirt and top and leonard cohen hat. Speaking local language. Up a street there is an army post with lots of sandbags and guns.
On way back the bus is stopped by the police. Passports? After much squirming by us Jack intervenes and in fluent spanish says we have left our passports as we were robbed. You must carry them but let us go. Fortunately the police had not asked the lady from London who was going to tell them to F off.
The photo is Jack with his passpòrt after the police got off.
Overnight bus to Medellin tonight. Said to be the best and safest?
Look forward to relaxing when we reach the caribean at cartegna

Youngmi is robbed again and Dave has a parasite in Quito, Ecuador-- what next?

We have been in Ecuador for about two weeks. Having stayed at a fantastic Hampton hotel in Guayaquil we caught the bus to Rio Bamba, The usual violent films on the bus. One with Nicolas Cage was as ridiculous as tough guy Cage films are, the other about Mr Bone who seemed a useful chap to travel through south america with. The bus went from sea level to 2700 metres climbing up through jungle and fog until it went dark. We were very unhappy when the bus stopped and we were out on a street corner in Riobamba. No sign of a bus station.After a few scary minutes managed to get a taxi to a hotel and we were safe.Next morning looked around a big colonial town then got the bus to Banos. Pouring down but a nice touristy town, Blancas and Plantas hostel had a fire in the longe area. Very nice. Good meals at Casa Hood.Chiva(truck) around some waterfalls. Hot baths were wonderful. We were thinking of walking to the mirador to see the local volcano but a sign at the start of the path warning of ladrons (robbers) dissuaded us.
4 hour bus ride Banos to Quito. Lots of people getting on and off so we were careful with our day packs keeping them between our legs. When we got a taxi at Quito bus station Youngmi shouts I have been robbed. Her daypack had been slashed on the bus and the samsung tablet carefully stolen.Mucho nervioso.

Police report at bus station then another taxi to hotel in Quito new town,Internet cafe across road for another insurance claim.After dark the area was inhabited only by exotic ladies and dodgy bloke and no police so stayed in hotel.
Next day found the perfect hostel Lauberge between new and old towns.Jean Luc the swiss owner and his team amde us very welcome.Trip to US embassy to apply for a visa on Youngmis emergency passport. Interview in 5 days. Met Evelyn and Stefan swiss couple from Huaraz hotel. Scared the life out of them with robbery tales. When they caught the bus from Banos to Quito another swiss couple on the bus had a back pack stolen from the luggage rack. Had a day out with these lovely people at the Mital del Mundo  the equator marker just outside of Quito.

Old town of Quito was good for a couple of days with very exotic baroque churches but we always got back to the hostel before dark.

Went up teleferique from 2700m to 4100m then walked along the mountains for a while. Wild mountains right next to the city. Maria and Jutte were body guards and good froends for that trip.
Dave had been having trouble with his stomach for a couple of weeks and was lucky enough to walk past a clinic offerring to test everything. A stool test revealled he has a parasite ,giardia ,and the pharmacy next door has hopefully provided the cure.By tomorrow the US visa should be ready and Dave will hopefully be winning the battle with his parasite. We can then test our nerves again with the Colombian border.