Saturday 6 July 2013

Last full day in South America- robbers permitting

Monday and out last full day in South America. We are back in Cartagena. The sun is strong and it looks like it will be 34degrees same as yesterday and about 30degress hotter than Montreal where we are headed.




Taganga was perfect for lots of days of rest and relaxation. We swam, read, ate filet mignons, used the internet and sat on the hotel roof drinking cold beer and looking over the ocean. Every day was hot and sunny until we went to Minca in the hills. Lovely jungle type place but after being there a few minutes there was torrential rain. The wet season has started said someone. We were told the area was safe for walking but it felt strange. There had been lots of paramilitary activity there until 2006.

Album - Minca, Colombia

We had a few short walks. One to a coffee farm. There was a cafe but no coffee. The guy there stared into the dstance and said slowly to Youngmi the coffee farm is here. He could see something we couldnt. We also met a happy irish man who told us he had bought a hillside and hoped to do some building. They are all drug dealers says Youngmi. Hotel Minca was nice with lots of humming birds and a big coloured parrot. Happilly not in the bedroom.

Next morning Youngmi reluctanly agreed to come for a three hour walk to Hostel Semilla. Nice track lots of jungly trees. Mangoes everwhere so we collected a few. Semilla hostel beautiful. In a clearing on a hillside.You had to walk the last part of the way there. A colombian lady and swiss guy had built it. No elecricity but so relaxing.

Album - Taganga, Colombia

Back to Minca and taxi to Taganga. Time for a swim then beer on the roof. The next day it is pouring. The rainy season had started. For the last week the weather kept changing and so did our plan to go to Tayrona Park. You sleep in a hammock and there are lots of mosquitos. Too hard. Met great people at the Casa de Felippe. All the staff were helpful and smiling. Gardens beautiful and the kitchen team of Dominc and Daniel the best.Towards our last night the filet mignon was accompanied by suberb bread and a glass of Chilean red. Youngmi praided the red wine sauce and secured us a lesson the nex day. The suace takes 4 hours to make with lots of slow cooking. Butter and red onions are fried then red wine added and simmered until it is absorbed the onions then stock sauce and tomato sauce and more red wine. For military service in France Domininc had worked in the bakery of a nuclear sub for one year.

Met a young English guy who had travelled for four years but in the last three months and got dengue fever then malaria. He had been very sick but was now recovering enough to plan to fly back to UK in a few days. Better being robbed than being so sick.

On our last afternoon on the beach Youngmi shouted they are being attacked. Two backpackers with rucksacks were attacked by two guys with knives as they walked down steps at the far end of the beach. They fought them off and then about 10 police gave chase. Unfortunately this is our main impression of Peru, Ecuador and Colombia. We are on guard all the time now and often dont go to places because it might not be safe. I have never been so restricted in my walking. We have met many lovely people but the few dodgy ones give everything an edge that it would be better without.

Back to Cartagena on Sunday night and the hotel el viajero. Air con a welcome change. Great internet so we could print flight and hotel vouchers. Hope we spend our last night on the chiva rhumba tour an open sided bus partying around in the warm night air. After months of being high up and cool the red hot coastal weather has been a complete change. Variety is the spice of life.

We read the liberator of South America Simon Bolivar was knackered after several years of travelling around Colombia Ecuador, Peru and Venezuela and fighting a few battles. I can understand. He went to Santa Marta next to Taganga and after a few days died in his bed.  Happily we can fly to New York.

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